Memorable Meals in Korea: Kyungbokkung

The entrance
Menu (which only our host can read!)

It’s definitely true that Korea has one of the great cuisines of the world and, for us personally, French, Japanese and Korean top the list. Of course, they have adopted some of the typical western-style dishes, but they still have wonderful dishes and styles that are unique to that country.

Over the years, we’ve had many amazing meal experiences in Korea, and it was true of our last trip too.

As I mentioned earlier, we were staying at the Hoam Guest House on the SNU campus before, and after, moving to Pyeongchang for the JRS symposium. We had many of our meals in the Guest House dining room—always breakfast, once for lunch, with the group, and a couple of times for dinner. But, often for dinner our hosts would take us out, as they were very eager to showcase Korean meals and dishes for us. And we were willing participants!

One such memorable meal was to a Korean-style beef house, called Kyungbokkung. It’s supposedly named after the huge and beautiful Gyeongbokgung, the “Palace of Shining Happiness”, completed in 1394 by Taejo, the first king of the Joseon Dynasty. It’s regarded as the #1 palace complex in Seoul, so this restaurant presumably wishes to be regarded very highly in the restaurant world too!

Salad
Sashimi plate

Our host, Myunggi Baek, took Rod and I, and Anne and Chris McSweeney (he was another of the invited speakers) to Kyungbokgung, which is within easy driving distance of Hoam Guest House. It’s on the top floor of a building, and has a series of private rooms leading off corridors. 

The wonderful cut of meat
Cutting the meat with scissors

The room we were in had a long table with two burners that are used to cook the special beef. But, the meal was so much more than beef. As is usual for Korean meals, we started with a bowl of soup each, and there were many small side dishes—kimchi, pickles, rice, sauces. A salad plate arrived, and then two amazing plates of sashimi, real works of art, as they were decorated with genuine plants and the raw fish was wreathed in an icy mist (from liquid nitrogen). The beef was a huge slab of meat, beautifully cooked by our server on the center grills, and carefully cut with a pair of large scissors. We’ve seen this cutting of cooking meat with scissors before, and it seems like a really sensible idea to us. The final plate was a whole highly salted, fried fish (I don’t remember the name, unfortunately).

The final fish
Us with the McSweeneys
With our host, Myunggi Baek

We feel very honored to have been treated to such a special meal.

Remembering a Wonderful Friend: Jongsoo Chang

Cooking at a Korean grill restaurant
Saying hallo to some of the cows on his farm
With his family on the road trip

Rod met Jongsoo Chang (holding the flag in the picture at the top of the blog) many years ago through their mutual scientific connections and at various conferences. We got to know him, and his family, much better in 2009. We went to a JRS symposium in Seoul, Korea, that he helped to organize and after the conference he took Rod and I, with his wife and two sons, on an amazing road trip. They were so excited and happy to share parts of their country with us, and we were happy to learn more about the Korean culture and history.

Explaining to Rod about flags at a temple
A village on the road trip

We have been friends ever since—they came to our university for a short stay one year, and in 2015 we were back in Korea for another conference and we stayed at their home for a couple of days. And over the years we’ve met up with him at other conferences in other places.

On a makeshift see-saw in an old Hanok village
With me on the road trip

So, it was with great sadness that we learned of his tragic sudden death from cancer at the end of 2022. When we were back in Seoul this year for the JRS symposium many of us reminisced about Jongsoo and what a lovely person he was. One of his colleagues shared this short commemorative video with us, and wish I could share it here, but I’m not sure how to insert a video. We also met with his wife, Mi Kwon, and spent the afternoon and evening her, reminiscing about times spent together, crying and laughing. Thank you, Mi, for making the time to do that. We will always remember Jongsoo with great fondness, and hope to keep in touch with Mi.

With Mi
Cheers, with Rod

I’m posting a few photos that we took over the years, many from the 2009 road trip.

Below are the links to some of the stories I’ve posted about experiences with Jongsoo.

This is about a special eel restaurant that he and Mi took us to.

And this is about the great road trip in 2009.

https://viviennemackie.com/Korea_2009/Road_trip_summary.html